Fashion Tantra + WOMEN
5PREVIEW was born in January 2008 and has since made a bold niche for itself in an increasing number of fashionistas’s heart. Platinum Love Magazine interviewed Emeli, who speaks on behalf of herself and Diego, the creators.
What was the idea behind 5PREVIEW?
The idea is really simple: everybody loves t-shirts and they are easier to sell than other clothes. We wanted to create a small collection and, when we had earned a little money from some prints that got a lot of attention on MySpace, we decided to print more and start up the company. That was one year ago and at the time we printed everything by hand with sponges and stencils. We now have a proper production line. I worked for a big Italian brand for several years before 5PREVIEW and I was tired of being creative for other people; I was ready to do something for myself.
You often refer to the quote, ›imitation is the highest form of flattery.‹ Do you consider your work to be just imitation?
The imitation thing is ironic. Some of our prints make fun of Chanel, Marc Jacobs and other brands but that’s not all they’re about. I think it’s okay to ›imitate‹ (get inspiration of) if you put a bit of your own creativity into it, not just pretending that you are someone else. A Chinese ready-to-wear brand copied us and they did it badly, losing the sophistication that we stand for; I don‘t like that and I don’t think Coco would have liked that either.
Why has the Coco Chanel logotype been such an influence on your work?
Having worked for a commercial brand for many years, I have learnt how to be commercial. If people want the CAVOUR print, they’ll get the CAVOUR print. I offer a lot of prints but before someone famous wears it or a top blogger writes about it, it seems the mainstream crowd has no courage to wear it. But for me it’s perfect: I have a lot of clients that want to be underground/alternative so they get all of the non-Chanel inspired prints from the 5PREVIEW collection.
Why do you stick to black and white?
It’s down to the way people around me dress: a scale from optic white, through all the grey tones and finishing with all black. I think it could also be a reaction to the neon-coloured Nu-Rave shirts but it is probably just that these colours suit most people. Right now I’m on a train (dressed in grey and black) and in front of me there is a pale girl dressed in a horrible fluorescent green cardigan, and I’m asking myself why she chose it... it looks awful!
Do you think you will cross over to tailored work eventually, or will you move on to the catwalk, a la Henry Holland?
I’m moving from Rome to New York in a month and I hope I will find another scene there that may put 5PREVIEW on another level. I don’t want to be a t-shirt brand forever but you have to start somewhere! I also think it’s good to become known before you throw yourself into the fashion business, and the 5PREVIEW logo is becoming quite recognisable now.
The response to 5PREVIEW has been great... any unexpected admirers?
I was really honoured when British designer Giles Deacon ordered some shirts from me and also by the attention we got from Örjan Andersson, founder and head designer of Cheap Monday, which resulted in two collaborations, one of which is yet to come. Quentin, singer of The Teenagers, always wears our shirts (and no one has paid him for that!) and the first shirt we ever sold was to François, the director of the Madonna/Justin Timberlake video last year and he appeared on French TV wearing it. He also directed the D.A.N.C.E video of Justice with an obvious t-shirt theme!
Where do you plan on ending up in the future (as a company)?
I just hope this could be something to pay my rent and future winter holidays in Aspen... I‘m kidding. I hope we can create a proper collection where we can focus our creativity, instead of working for others.
Interview by Matthew Attard Navarro
Interview appeared in Platinum Love
5PREVIEW Website
Friday, May 22, 2009